Looking for radial arm saw table dimensions
I have recently inherited a 1971 Craftsman radial arm saw. It apears to be in excellent condition but there is no work surface table on it. It used to be my father-in-law's and I seem to remembere that it had a particle board work surface with a back rip fence and two small back table pieces. I have all of theowner's manuals and a very nice 102 page Craftsman user's guide. But there is now information on the thickness and sizes of these table pieces. Any suggestions? Thanks. Boogity, I can go measure the table on my DeWalt RAS but can you post the model of your saw? Some RAS saws have a bracket on the frame where the table attaches, with clamps hear the column to push the backstop against the table. This allows you to quickly change the backstop. Does yours have these clamps? Yeah Greg, it has one thumbscrew-like clamp on each side in the rear. Back about as far as the main saw post. The thumbscrews are about 6 long and it looks like they would push the back, smaller, table pieces towards the front to pinch them against the rip fence and the main table. It's a Crafstman 11329460 and I think the user's manual says 1971 but that's probably the print date. Thanks I have a mod # 113.199250 which I'm sure is similar to yours. I built a new table for it recently and copied the dimensions of the old one. The front(the one nearest you is 18.5 wide, the back is 8.75, the fence is .75 thick.Table length is your option. I made the new one of MDF, I think that's the right acronym, Ha!! I'm sure you know this but it's critical that the two table pieces be cut so they are parallel and the front one bolted down reasonably square with the frame under it.Mine had .25 panhead bolts, lay wide piece on frame, sqare with frame, mark holes(4), drill small pilot holes and drill countersink holes on topside with spade bit slightly larger than bolt heads then drill .25 the rest of the way. After installing new table, go thru all the setup steps in owners manual and I think you'll be very pleased with the saw. I E-mailed those pages to another fella recently because he got the saw but no manual with it. Sorry to get so windy, I just want to be sure you have all the info needed. If I hadn't had the old table, I'd have been in the same boat as you. Hope this helps, Mike Thanks for the dimensions Mike. The table in the picture below is similar to my DeWalt in that it has the fence against the table followed by a pusher/spacer board on the flat. This set-up on my saw puts the fence behind the blade when the head is full forward. Click image and enter your model number for the parts breakdown: Image credit: sears.com You guys are great! The information you two guys provided is just enough to get me going again. Thanks. I've been out of town for the past 10 days - that's why this reply has taken so long. I'll make the front table 18 1/4 deep by 40 wide. That's because I have a piece of high quality 1 thick particle board that is 40 wide. I think I'll make the rear table in two pieces like the exploded diagram shows. One 6 and one 2 3/4 deep x 40. Perfect. There is a recall on MANY Craftsman Radial Arm Saws. If this saw is involved in the recall, there is an EXCELLENT chance you will qualify for a FREE replacement top, blade guard, and other parts. Most 10 RAS Craftsman sold up until a few years ago qualify. Go to http://radialarmsawrecall.com/ You will need the part number and serial number. My father and my father-in-law both got these new parts shipped to them FREE by just filling out a simple form at the website above. It was a HUGE box. I went back and reread and saw the model numbers. Boogity--Looks like there's no kit available for yours, if I entered your part # correctly. mla2ofus--Your mod # 113.199250 does have a kit available, so if you go to radialarmsawrecall.com, you will be able to get lots of free stuff. The replacement blade guard is very similar to what you see on saws being sold now. Bummer that you just replaced your top. I'd still get the kit though and store it for next time you need a top. Unfortunately, my old 12 Craftsman RAS doesn't qualify for the recall, despite the fact it has the same safety issues as the others. (Let's face it, these things are dangerous in the hands of careless users.) Thanks for the heads up, Chirkware. I'll check into that. Thanks again, Mike undefined Originally Posted by Boogity I have recently inherited a 1971 Craftsman radial arm saw. It apears to be in excellent condition but there is no work surface table on it. It used to be my father-in-law's and I seem to remembere that it had a particle board work surface with a back rip fence and two small back table pieces. I have all of theowner's manuals and a very nice 102 page Craftsman user's guide. But there is now information on the thickness and sizes of these table pieces. Any suggestions? Thanks. Hi Boogity, I also have just gotten an older saw same as your's but I dont have the owners manual. Any chance I could get a copy of yours. Sure would appriciate that. Any Idea where I could get that 102 page users guide? Any help would be good. Thanks I've had my RAS for a few years now, and I thought I bought it in 91 (just before I got married). I went to radialarmsawrecall.com and sure enough there was a kit availible. I placed my order online, and decided to follow up with a phone call a few days later. The lady at Emerson did not show that my order was placed, and was very happy to re-place my order. I should have a box of new parts in a week or so. I decided to order a few other parts from Sears as long as I was updating the saw, and to my dismay the one part that I really needed is no longer availible. I have a Craftsman 113.199250 10 and need the cap, arm piece (a plastic piece that goes around the power switch). Does anyone have any idea where I can find one? I've been watching ebay to see if anyone lists the same model I have, or if they have parts. I'm stumped. Originally Posted by fixer145 undefined Hi Boogity, I also have just gotten an older saw same as your's but I dont have the owners manual. If you haven't found anything yet, check this site. Scroll down about halfway to the Sources of Manuals and Parts. Good luck! Thanks Chirkware. I contacted Emerson Electric and unfortunately they could not give me any suggestions as to where I can get that part, nor do they have it themselves. If the part was complete, I'd go ahead and try to make a replacement myself, but a large part of the bottom has broken off and I don't have it. I guess I'll have to keep looking... Thanks again for your help. Originally Posted by chirkware There is a recall on MANY Craftsman Radial Arm Saws. If this saw is involved in the recall, there is an EXCELLENT chance you will qualify for a FREE replacement top, blade guard, and other parts. Most 10 RAS Craftsman sold up until a few years ago qualify. Go to http://radialarmsawrecall.com/ You will need the part number and serial number. My father and my father-in-law both got these new parts shipped to them FREE by just filling out a simple form at the website above. It was a HUGE box. Chirkware, I have no idea if you'll ever read this, but THANK-YOU, THANK-YOU! I ran across this nine year old thread, pretty much by accident. I was going to replace the table on my Craftsmen saw, which was OSB and was dying. It didn't look like a big thing to replace and make myself, but I decided to look and see how much a replacement table would cost. That is when I came across this forum. I contacted Emerson and gave them the info on my saw and they sent out that big box of stuff! It didn't cost me a dime and it came within a few days, not even the two weeks they said it would be. Because of Chirkware and this forum, I got a new table, and a safety guard to boot! All I wanted was a non-warped table and fence to make sure my cuts were more accurate. I've enjoyed this saw from the very beginning, but I'm even happier about having it. If anyone is wondering why they send a new table out with the new guard, I know I did, it is because the new guard needs a little more clearance behind the fence. So, if anyone with a 10 RAS Craftsman, the recall is still going on on this date, 3/21/08. My saw is going to feel practically brand new! Thanks! PS Oh, I contacted Sears to see how much the table would cost, and it would have been over $90, just for the table and fence, so I figure that I got almost $200 worth of parts. I appreciate the dimensions for the radial arm saw table but would like a picture of how the pieces are installed. I seem to have a hard time understanding the back piece and the fence. Thank You Jerry Can anyone help me find a stand for one of these saws? I have the model 113.199250 which is supposed to have a stand but it's missing. I got it from a friend for free. I tested it by plugging it in and turning it on. It seems fine. It needs cleaning up and adjusting. I have ordered the upgraded kit for it. I need a stand. Thanks I have a stand on mine. I am planning on taking mine off the stand and mounting it on a platform between two benches. I want to allign the benches so that I have a good infeed and outfeed. I'm not sure where you live, but maybe we could make some arrangements. I do have a little issue with mine though. The bevel index knob assembly broke where it bends so I cannont put it back together with the new guard. I have not been able to find another one. If anyone has any ideas, please let me kmow. The part number is 63648. Originally Posted by Boogity You guys are great! The information you two guys provided is just enough to get me going again. Thanks. I've been out of town for the past 10 days - that's why this reply has taken so long. I'll make the front table 18 1/4 deep by 40 wide. That's because I have a piece of high quality 1 thick particle board that is 40 wide. I think I'll make the rear table in two pieces like the exploded diagram shows. One 6 and one 2 3/4 deep x 40. Perfect. I just joined diy , the table size is 40X19X1 for the front table and the back table is 40X7X1 I have a Craftsman Radial Arm that I bought in 1970 the same as yours best regards BobOv BobOv, welcome to the forums. the OP was over 5 years ago, so I hope he got the table fixed. But thanks for the dimensions. Can't beat the older Craftsman RAS. Only problem I have is looking at newer, nicer saws and not being able to justify buying one because the Craftsman 1973 model just WON'T BREAK !!! We look forward to your input. I just joined your little community here, and have a question. I inherited my father's 1970's era Craftsman radial arm saw, and it needs a new stand, or at least one leg and one leg brace. Sears lists both parts, but only has the brace in stock. Any ideas? Welcome to the forums!! Check around at yard sales and garage sales. I found mine there. Glad you were able to hold onto the saw. It is a rock. At worst, you can build a frame table for it should you not be able to get the factory legs. Let us know how your search goes. If you have to go the self-engineered route, Rockler has some nice hardware for DIY benches and such. Search Adjustable Multi-Function Shop Stand on their site. Thanks all, I have new parts on the way...FREE. I was googling ideas to build a replacement table, ended up spending a few hours on this site and referenced links. I'm new to radial saw use and now not only got some great tips, but have a free table and guard kit on the way. Never been so happy to own a recalled product. I was looking over the new guard today and I don't think I like it at all. When I cross-cut I pull the saw through the wood. With this plastic thing I don't see how you can do that unless you have 3 arms. The back of the guard is squared off and only moves up while pushing forward. Hmmmm. It looks to me all the new saws have this type of guard so I'd like to hear from anyone who has used these and how easy they are to use. Looks like a PITA to me. One nice thing is you can lower the front lip for ripping without exposing the whole rear of the blade. I'm thinking, if I use it at all, is remove the whole plastic guard and see how that works. Baldwin Doesn't it have a trigger so that you can manually raise it before drawing it back? Ah yes, helps to read the manual. I see you have to remove the motor, add the new handle with the 'trigger' and a bunch of other stuff. Seems like a big job. I don't know though....seems kind of klunkie to me. I'm sure it's safer not having half the blade exposed, we'll see. Thanks I found this thread helpful even 3-4 months old so I thought I would add mine. The recall infor is much appreciated. I wonder are they still honoring that on these old says?!?!? To the poster wanting table dimensions, I have built one in the past. I also recently re-acquired that saw (1980 model craftsman RAS) and I am again putting a deck on it. I would recommend a good sheet of cabinet grade oak, or better than MDF, would be MDO. Harder to find. It is used for signage and impurvious to weather and moisture. With regard to the measurements, remember the dimensions are really open somewhat to your needs. I even thought about a custom curvature allwing me close access for proximity areas I would be standing, BUT DONT BOX YOURSELF IN!! I can truley see where these saws are extremely dangerous with the possibility of it taking off down the rail in your direction!!!. The Deck I just cut today is 3'6 x 2'6. So you want at least 30 inches out to support Sheet Goods. I even thought about replaceing the angle iron arms that extend out with longer ones. I may do that with some simple angle iron if I ever need to rip many sheets. THATS AWSOME.. I glued and screwed a 1x3 on the rear side for back wall guide /ripping. Keep in mind one of the features of this saw is that you can rip 4x8 sheets of plywood maintaining your straight edge. FInally, the point is, the deck DOES NOT have to be mounted EXACTLY, however, your deck has to be exactly square with the rear guide wall you glued it to, or you will wind up with unstraight binding cuts... REMEBER the Deck as it is sqare to the blade is completely relative to where YOU SET it. You will find that the tower cap with degrees swivels, so basically, YOU SET THE ZERO MARK. Obviously the straighter everything is the better. Just use a large square to set the zero perpedicular line, set the top cup to it, and the rest is there.....! Now that is for my ripping deck. Note that the saw is extremely adjustible in height. So for further deck application I plan to STACK decks accordingly. The next one I am building at the minute is for cross cutting. So I am cutting another square deck that will have the back rail inset far enought to get the saw back far enough for the 90 degree cut. Then the rest will be there. So I am planning to cut the board square to the existing rear rail, set it on top overlaying identical on front and side perimeters. Next I am thinking of using large dowels the will be glued into the top deck, and slide down into 4-5 holes in the bottom deck. So all I have to do is slide it on and drop it down... It should work pretty nicely. Finally, I will rip a mm deep 90 degree line out and draw lines paralell to the rear guide line about 4 inches in (whatever gives clearance), and dato out a 3/8 groove to set the guide rail in (with skill saw should suffice as the overall run should = STRAIGHT. Glue it and screw it from the bottom and done... You can repeat for any custom template, jig, whatever you call it, that you need... There may be better ways out there. This is just observed layman attempts for an amateur woodworker.. BillC3, welcome to the forums! All the information you give is great. May help others configure their saws. One question. Why would you consider cutting sheet goods on a RAS? Seems awfully dangerous, even with a landing strip for a table (don't forget the blue lights ) Not sure if I mentioned mine, but you only get a 12 cut at max on a RAS, so having a table much wider is a waste of materials and makes you reach for the saw. Mine is about 16 deep and transverses wall to wall in my shop, well almost. It is about 18' long. Any other cuts I use the proper tool, ie. table saw, circle saw, band saw, etc. I make sure the cuts, dadoes I make on the RAS don't exceed the cut capabilities. Found a Craftsman RAS on Craigs list. Guy said his brother in law died and that he was compulsive and bought a lot of tools but never opened them. Hummm?? But met with the guy and sure enough it was still new in the box under several layers of dirt/dust etc. The box just fell apart once we tried to remove the RAS. But, after I got it home, leg kit came with it, noticed no manual. Internet search found one and I also noticed the recall on it, so Emerson sent me a new kit. I am still trying to assemble the whole thing, threw away the old particle board top in favor of the MDF type top. But, the question is...don't know how old this thing is. Part # is 113.19770 with a serial number of 8104 M0789. Had a couple of guys guess that it was april 1981 or July of 89. Any reliable source or decoding the SN?? TX I have no s/n info but if you can post a few clear pics on a free site like Photo Bucket and provide a link someone might recognize it. You could also use the image link above to have an image appear in your post. Here's your parts list http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part...sid=PDVertical. It does look to be newer than my 1973 vintage battleship, so I would say early 1980's. BUT, post some pix on photobucket.com or others and let us see this treasure. Man, great find!! The SN on mine is 90036.MO382 and I bought it 8/90 for $375. I'll guess yours was made in 81. I'd appreciate it if you could post a picture with the new top on it. I haven't installed mine yet, not sure I care for that new guard they sent. My son went to an estate sale last year and they had a saw that looked just like mine, in like new condition. They wanted $90 for it and he didn't take it!!?? As I said in the previous post, I am still assembling this thing. Got the legs on it yesterday, it was a chore to stand it up after wrestling it around on the garage floor. In the process of firming up the bottom with some wood bracing. The new top is just laying there and not attached as of yet. You can see the pics of the old vrs the new blade guard. More pics will come upon completion. As a side note, this all happened on the same day as I went to pick the RAS up, was also following a 6 1/8 planner/joiner on Craigs list, just like the saw, but from a different guy, advertised this thing as old but new in the box. He is a Hard wood floor installer, said he got it several years ago to use in his business to plain wood flooring in some cases where the old new flooring was not at the same level. He never had to use it and it too was still in the original box, strapped together. That sucker took both of us grunting and groaning to get it from his van into my truck. I deboxed it from my truck and carried it into the garage piece by piece. It was in new condition, you can see it sitting next to the RAS in one of these links. All the time I am thinking....is this some kinda new scam on Craigs list, selling old but still unopened tools Hummmmm. Assembled it last week, used it to trim 2 3/4 inch board widths to 1.25 required for the mobile cart that is installed under it. (Wife still has questions as to what is going on....we are still in discussions ) ImageShack® - Online Photo and Video Hosting ImageShack® - Online Photo and Video Hosting ImageShack® - Online Photo and Video Hosting Good find on the joiner as well!!! Mine took 4 people to remove it from the truck and put it on the shop floor. Doesn't look like you fared too badly as both units look great. You'll get many years of use from both of them without question. Get the top made and photos so we can see what you've done. Did it come with wheels? If not, make the investment. You won't regret it. If you think you got scammed, I venture to say you can turn your money back quickly to almost any dedicated woodworker on a budget. Those who have no budget may go Delta or whatever, but you can't beat the reliability of the craftsman brand during that vintage era. Like I said, my RAS and table saw are 1973 vintage and just won't break. Hey, Baldwin, are you sure he's your real son????? Some things like tool buying is hereditary, and he should have jumped on that like white on rice! I know I did not get scammed ) its just the fact that I came across two different guys, in different parts of town offering 2 old (but not used, still in the box) items that i wanted. Don't know what the chances of that are but..just a small update today, got the wood braces installed along with a top covering for some added storage today. Also spent about 1 hr removing the old Grease from the vertical arm once I got it cranked all the way up. That stuff was like hard wax And Yes, wheels are coming. Just be thankful for blessings, as you have been served. Let us see it once it is up and running. Baldwin, why can't we find deals like that????? Just reading this post I had a almost identical one in early 80's had it for about 10 years until I moved and gave it to son in law for his cabinet shop. got a lot of use out of it wish I had it back. Now, if I could just get nailguns, drills, cut off saws, etc. to last as long as that table saw and RAS have, 38 years and counting, I'd be a happy camper. I think it was one time a manufacturer didn't build in an automatic obsolescence in their product. Aaah, those were the days!! ... he should have jumped on that like white on rice! I know, that's just what I told him. Unfortunately, I'm usually on the wrong end of 'good deals'. .... the fact that I came across two different guys, in different parts of town offering 2 old (but not used, still in the box) items that i wanted. I'll say! You really should pick up a Powerball and Mega-Millions ticket. You're on a roll.
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