Friday, February 28, 2014

York diamond 80 furnace doesnt shutoff and doesnt heat

York Diamond 80 furnace doesn't shutoff and doesn't heat


I have had this problem intermittently for 2 or 3 years. My furnace quits blowing heat, when set to heat and setting is higher than room temperature, and then it won't turn off when set to off. In the past unplugging the unit, in the attic, solved the problem. That is not working. There is a red blinking led. According to the information on the cover a series of 5 blinks means that the roll out switch is open, or roll out sensed. I do not have a manual for this beast, so I don't have any idea what the diagnostic means. Help please. Ed Take the cover off the burner compartment of the furnace. Obtain the model number of the furnace off the furnace rating plate in the burner compartment and post that here. York Diamond 80 Furnace Model P4HUB16L06401B Serial Number WBNMO47609 Replace your roll out switch. They are not that expensive. Should be a schematic on the door if not then a manuel off the internet. Me just a home owner struggling with a ls limiter switch on an old coleman. 4 flashes in my case. Originally Posted by Ken H Replace your roll out switch. They are not that expensive. Should be a schematic on the door if not then a manuel off the internet. Me just a home owner struggling with a ls limiter switch on an old coleman. 4 flashes in my case. Keep being a homeowner and stop giving bad advice. A rollout trips for a reason and acts as a safety to keep the unit from catching fire. Rollout switches are ofter resettable. We need to find out what caused the roll out to trip not just replace it. hvactech is correct. I don't think I've EVER replaced a resettable flame rollout switch ---- fusible links, yes, but that's a different animal. But frankly the explanation of what is happening doesn't make sense to me. And a resettable limit wouldn't reset by turning the power on and off anyway. Unfortunately I haven't been able to find a manual for the furnace on line to try to see what might be happening. well, SP, you know how homeowners think they are having the same problem every time their heating equipment stops operating, They do this because in their mind it either works or doesn't. From the sounds of it to me, there was one issue previously that would be resolved temporarily by resetting the power, and resetting the power doesn't work now because there is a different issue. The OP did not state if they had the same diag code previously when they could reset the power to get the unit to run again. The first few times this happened the machine reset by unplugging and then watiting 5 or so minutes. The next time it happened a friend was over, and he knew about the blinking red light. It has been a 5 blink rollout switch code, as stated before. I now know where the roll out switch is, and have been pressing it to reset. Well, it lasted for 3 weeks, and then 2 days, and now for 1 hour. So, is there any other information that I can get for anyone??? GET A PROFESSIONAL OUT THERE ASAP! A rollout tripping is a completely different concern than being able to remove power and reset the control. There is a big danger when a roll out switch trips. A roll out tripping means most likely you have a heat exchanger issue and the flames are rolling out of the heat exchanger. CALL A PRO! Again I agree with Hvac Tech. A flame rollout switch indicates some serious condition which is allowing flames to come out the front of the heat exchanger. That can toast the electrical wires or other parts in the furnace, or even start a fire. It can happen with a bad heat exchanger, a plugged up venting system or other problem. Not something to reset and go. The problem needs to be correctly diagnosed. I don't see any physical evidence of scorching: no scorched wood, no melted plastic on wires, and no blackening around the burner area. Could the roll out switch just be bad??? possibly but that is not the point. the switch may be operating correctly and that is why there is no sign of damage due to the switch operating properly. Also, where does one find a manual??? from york.... going to be pretty tough getting one though. What are you needing from the manual? What is the significance of the decrease in the amount of time that the unit operates correctly after it is reset? the problem is getting worse. most likely if it were a heat exchanger failure, then the crack or hole is getting bigger. If the flue is being blocked, then the blockage is getting worse. I am really trying to avoid having someone come out to fix this. I don't know anyone who does this kind of work, and having read posts at various sites about experiences with repair people I'd like to fix it myself. A manual would be helpful in locating items that need to be replaced. I'm usually pretty good at replacing parts, if I know what I am looking for. I have also had bad experiences with techs. Luckily items were always under warranty, so they had to keep coming back until they did it correctly. don't put all of us professionals in the same category. Yes, there are bad contractors out there, but there are also good ones. Do some research with the BBB and your friends and family and see who they use and who they have had bad experiences with. Most manuals will not show you an exact location of every item in the furnace. What exactly are you looking for? The reason I ask this is because you apparently already know where the roll out switch is since you have been resetting it. The only way to get the correct parts is from a distributor, they just need the model number and the name of the part you are looking for. Most of the time, however, they do not see to the public as you are dealing with appliances in which you could harm to yourself your home or your family if not following proper procedures or not installing something properly or not finding something that a educated professional would know to check or look for.








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