Troy-Bilt TB525CS 4-Cycle Trimmer Won't Start

Have had this for about four years, really haven't had any problems with it besides an oil leak from time to time over the years. Never found the source. It's current on tune up, with new air filter and spark plug. Crank case has plenty of oil, gas tank is full. Tried to go start it yesterday morning, and it wouldn't fire up. Gave it a few tries, then let it be. Came back to it an hour later, and removed the spark plug wire. Blew compressed air all around the outside, reconnected the spark plug line. Tried to start it, wouldn't start. Tried a second time, and it started! Ran for about 20 seconds, but then just stopped without warning. Haven't been able to get it started since. Tried 3 more times today, same procedures as yesterday, but to no avail. It doesn't even respond.. Doesn't react to the attempt at starting it.. No almost and it dies, or anything like that. It's just 100% dead. I just changed the oil also, and tried to get to the spark difuser to clean it but cant get the two bottom cover screws out. Feels like they're welded in there. Thoughts? Where to look first? I need this trimmer working desperately We're hosting an event next weekend and the house looks like crap! Check it for spark first with a good grounded spark plug. this works best in a dark environment, like a garage, etc. If you have spark, dump all the old gas out and replace it with new gas and about an ounce of Sea Foam (from auto parts store) to a quart of gas. Then with a full choke, no throttle spin it over about ten times. That will get the Sea Foam down into the carb bowl and into the workings of the carburetor. Let that sit for about an hour. Then purge the cylinder of all fuel. The most common is full throttle, no choke, ignition off - spin it over about fifteen times. Then try to start with normal starting procedure - usually full choke half throttle. If it starts and continues to run, let it run for a couple of minutes, then replace the fuel in the tank with just gasoline. Then tell your wife it's all fixed and she needs to get out there and shape the place up a little. (Don't tell her that came from here). LOL, sounds good. Thank you. What is the best way to check for spark? Just take a spark plug you know is good, ground it to the top of the engine, hook up the spark plug wire,, spin the engine over with the ignition switch on and watch for a bright blue spark. If you have good spark, I'm thinking a fuel line may have a crack in it, if the lines are O.K, then it's time for a carb kit.. Todays gas destroys the small carb diaghraghms fuel lines... 4 years is good on todays gas,,, Roger I did find a crack in the fuel line. Fixed it. Also picked up a small engine treatment that Lowes sells. Aerosol, directions state to remove spark plug, spray 2-3 oz in there, replace spark plug, spin motor once or twice, let it sit for 15 mins. Then start as normal. Did this. Fired up first try but died right away, wouldnt start again after. Stopped by my local small engine mechanic, who would look at it, however they think it'll cost about $125 in repairs. They think its just a carb/gas issue.. but a new one is $175..sooooo didnt make sense to me. They recommended the small engine treatment/cleaner, and they also recommended a starter fluid which I tried but didnt help. What's next guys? really dont want to buy a new one I'm still thinking you need a carb kit... Roger Am I essentially doing this? YouTube - #x202a;Carburetor Rebuild of 4 Cycle Ryobi, Troybilt Grass Trimmer#x202c;‏ OK, took the carb apart and cleaned it. Dryed, put it back together. It fired up! YAY.. It's running, but stalls intermittently. It'll start right back up agian, but its stalling about once every 45-60 seconds. Makes edging the driveway and sidewalks a very tedious task. what should I look at now? If you only cleaned the carb didn't install a carb kit, thats the problem,, The little diaghragms get stiff with todays gas stop meatering fuel properly.. If you did install the kit, you may have to adjust the meetreing lever if you changed it... I trust you have tried the adjustment screws??? Did you put a kit in it??? Roger Originally Posted by hopkinsr2 If you only cleaned the carb didn't install a carb kit, thats the problem,, The little diaghragms get stiff with todays gas stop meatering fuel properly.. If you did install the kit, you may have to adjust the meetreing lever if you changed it... I trust you have tried the adjustment screws??? Did you put a kit in it??? Roger A kit is nowhere to be found. Thus far, the only place I can find it is on ebay. I'll just have to buy one from there. Walbro only sells through specific distributors from what I can find, and none are in my area or even close. So in short, nope - didnt install a carb kit. Just cleaned it. In the interim, before the kit gets here from ebay, can I do anything else? Adjust the metering level? The only other thing im having trouble with is determining if I need the D11-WYL or K20-WYL kit. If you have a Walbro carb, any small engine shop should have /get the kit for you.. Post the #'s from the carb I'll look up a kit # for you.... I don't bother with the D stuff as for the difference in price you get the whole kit not stuck looking for something later...Roger Thanks Roger. I'll get the # off of the carb tonight. Ok so as stated above it could be spark or fuel system (lines, clean carb jets) OR it could also be time for a valve adjustment. every 25 to 50 hours or atleast one time annually you should check your valves. if they are too loose it will and cause the engine to die out or not run at all. to check valves you will need 1 new valve cover gasket, 2 small wrench most likely 8mm 3 allen wrench or other type bit 4 a feeler gauge. now this will seem hard but it is really very simple. have your owners manual handy to find clearance specs. remove plastic shroud. find valve cover should be on top of engine when laying trigger side down. remove valve (when piston is all the way up with both valves in visible even lovation neither open or closed up or down) once at tope dead center look for your fly wheel and spin it until you find the one blade that has square notch cut in it. spin notched blade till it meats with the small metal nipple located above flywheel. once you have prepped for the adjustment locate intake valve (one closest to the carb) loosen the tension nut slighty. insert feeler gauge with correct width between rocker arm and valve begin to slighty tighten the tension screw not nut until the feeler gauge can move with slight drag not easy not hard but firm drag. while holding the tension Screw in place re tighten tension nut. recheck clearance and repeat on other (exhaust) scrape old gasket off cover and intake being careful to clean all debris off engine with compressed air. then reassemble. i know i know seems hard but really if you have your manuel and take the time to follow to do the job (15-30 mins) it might pay off, if the carb and spark solutions have not. 15 dollars or under is much better than buying a new one. maintence is the key to a machines life. good luck to ya

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