I purchased my 60 gallon gas whirlpool flamelock in 2005. I have replaced the thermocouple 3 times and the gas control once. Water heather quit working yesterday so I installed a new thermocouple. When lighting, while holding the red button the pilot stays lit, but once I release the button the pilot is out. Since it is a new thermocouple, could it just be defective? There isn't much more I can replace on the water heater. I have limited knowledge of how a gas water heater works, therefore I am cautious of making repairs on my own. Should I call in a professional?? I should mention that we have been having pretty severe wind the last couple of days, could this have been the reason for the pilot not staying lit?
Thermocouples can be faulty out of the package. Another source of the problem could be the gas control valve.
Had a repairman out today, he said it is the gas control valve. It seems unusual to have so many repairs, since I have owned it for only 3 years?!? The water heater was purchased new from Lowe's. I went their today to get a new gas control and now they no longer carry the one that fits the model that I own. Now it looks like I will be ordering the part and waiting several more days before it even arrives. Is it safe for an amateur to replace a gas control valve?? Is there anything I can do to have this problem corrected? The repairman said that with a 3 yr old water heater to have had 3 thermocouples and 2 gas control valves replaced means that the heater is faulty. With the time zone difference, I have called as early as 3pm Alaska time to find out that they are already closed, and conveniently Whirlpool customer service is unavailable on weekends. Looks like I will be going at least 8 days without hot water!!
It is very unusual to go through 3 thermocouples and 2 gas control valves in 3 years. It would make me thing that there's an underlying problem causing this to happen. Sure, the water heater could be faulty, but, you already changed the gas control once, it's not likely that another would go bad so quickly and there's nothing in the water heater that would make it go bad which is leading me to believe it's something else going on. How is the water heater vented? Is vented properly or does an elbow attach directly into the water heater causing inadequate heat rise. Where does the vent pipe exit the house and where does it go once it exits the house? Is there proper pitch on the vent pipe (no less than 1/4 inch per foot lateral rise)? Any of these things could prematurely burn out a thermocouple on these flamelock water heaters. As far as a DIY'r changing the gas control, it's not very hard at all. You need to: -Shut off the gas to the water heater -Drain the water from the water heater. There should be a shut off on the cold water side. Then attach a garden hose to the drain. When draining the water heater, open a hot water faucet so there's no vacuum created with in the water heater. -Disconnect the theremocouple, pilot tube and main burner from the gas control valve. Note the thermocouple will likely have left handed threads on it. -Disconnect the gas line entering the gas control. At this point every thing should be disconnected from the gas control. -Unscrew the gas control valve from the water heater. This too may have left handed threads depending on the model. Reverse the process to install the new gas control valve. Before you screw in the new control, wrap the threads with some silicone tape. Turn the water back on to check for leaks before you start attaching all the other gas fittings. Once the gas line (apply pipe dope suitable for gas on the threads), burner tubes, and thermocouple are reattached and the gas is turned on, put some soapy water (dish soap seems to work the best) on the gas inlet to check for leaks. Then with the water heater operating put some soapy water on the main burner and pilot burner fittings at the gas control valve. For more detailed instructions refer to the owners manual. http://www.whirlpoolwaterheaters.com...ll_manuals.php is the link for the Installation Instruction Manuals webpage. I also recommend checking the warranty on the water heater. Note, if the water heater isn't installed with in the spec's outlined in the installation manual pertaining to venting and combustion makeup air in the room of the water heater, the warranty could be voided. If you had it professionally installed, I would be knocking on that contractors door. If Lowes installed it even better (er, worse) as then the liability of an incorrect installation is on them (IF that's the problem).
Apparently you have missed out on all the news about the Lowes/Whirlpool ongoing fiasco: http://www.waterheatersettlement.com/ Best advice: get rid of that WH , because even the retrofits provided have not solved all the problems.
Similar problem with Whirlpool Flameguard. Sure fire-yuk yuk - fix is bending thermocouple so that it is directly in the pilot light. Will not work if it is not in the flame.
Tags: whirlpool, flamelock, water, heater, thermocouple, replaced, pilot, lighting, water heater, control valve, water heater, with water, with water heater
OK, this issue started last summer...the swamp cooler is running, either HI or LO speed (two speed 1/2 HP motor), then just slows down, stops and buzzes. The motor may run fine for several days or weeks at a time. When I turn it off, try to re-start, it just buzzes. However, if I wait for an hour or longer, it will usually re-start. When starting it up, it seems to act like a capacitor start motor when the capacitor is not working properly. However, this motor does not have a capacitor and there is no capacitor in-line that I can find. The tag on the motor states it is a thermally protected motor, is it overheating and the thermal switch is kicking in? If so, why would it buzz? Hum......I am stumped...... Any ideas before I buy a new motor?
same thing happened to mine (see post below on swamp buzzing)- for a while, before the motor gives up the ghost, it will turn over, but ultimatley, it will die. mine was working for 3 weeks this spring/summer, and then just up and died - all it did was buzz. so i bought a new motor the other day ($119 for a 1/2 horse at true value - not too bad), installed it, and that did the trick. it's nice and cool now, and none of that buzzing.
If the motor is running and then slows down and stops, then I would say either the motor has a bearing that is trying to seize up, or something in the motor is giving up when the motor gets hot. Probably time to just grab a new one.
OK, thanks for your help!......I will opt for the new motor. Found a supplier via the internet of AO Smith 1/2 hp 2 speed new motor, it's $82 with free shipping, so will order the new motor and replace it. Luckily the swamp cooler is still working right now, as it's been 106-109 for five days now......and will only get hotter here in beutiful Las Vegas........
I'm here in Vegas also. Why order one on line, when you can go to lowes, home depot or nevada cooler pad?
If your new motor works for awhile then starts doing the same thing, in all likelihood you have bad bearings on the blower shaft. If they are not kept oiled, they wear out and the squirrel cage will not turn freely and bind up. This causes the motor to overheat and either shut down completely until it cools, or it will go into a very slow speed until it cools. Also, if the belt is too tight, or the adjustable pulley has been set to too big of a diameter, this can also cause the motor to overheat. Bottom line is your old motor may be fine.
Perfect advice herlongkid! My swamp cooler was working just fine when the motor seized, it was about 4yrs old. (i didn't realize there was oil ports to keep it lubed). So I ran to home depot and bought a new motor. I replaced the dead motor and oiled the entire blower unit. So when I turned it all on it ran for a few minutes and began to slow down, then finally to a stop and just buzzed. I checked the wiring, and the motor itself. both were not hot or smelled like they were burning.. So now I found this post and tried the advice.. To my surprise my adjustable pulley on the motor was set too large(all the way closed). I had to replace the old adjustable pulley because I couldn't get it off the dead motor. I didn't know that the adjusted diameter effected the motor operation.. Lesson learned. I opened up the new pulley making it smaller, readjusted the belt tension and now it works perfect. Thank you herlongkid.
You're welcome. Herlong is 70 miles from Reno. We had swamp coolers there too.
The motor must be mounted with the air vents downward. This is because the cooler air from below is taken in to cool the motor. If the ports are facing upward, the motor will pull in warmer air and continuously trip the thermal shutoff.
Tags: swamp, cooler, motor, stops, just, buzzes, adjustable pulley, before motor, bought motor, dead motor, down stops
I've got a bedroom in my house that is a shade warmer than the others in the warmer months. My daughter (the occupant of that room) has been relatively quiet about it up to now, but she is really starting to let me have it as the weather is heating up, so I've got to do something about it. I've been up in the attic and the flex duct that runs from the plenum to the register in her room is 7 inches in diameter and about 30 feet long. It's gray and probably about 27-28 years old (judging by when the 2nd AC unit was added to the house). It's showing its age and has some holes in the outer layer and I can feel air seeping through in spots, so I'm thinking that replacing the flex duct will do the trick, however, I've got a few questions for the experts out there. My prior research, IIRC, has told me that flex duct now comes in 8 diameter (no longer 7, or it just may be harder to find) and in runs of 25 feet. If either of these aren't true, please correct me, along with any advice on the 7 vs. 8 ducts. Otherwise, here are my questions: 1. 8 flex duct will obviously (to me) increase the amount of cool air that flows to that room, which I believe is a good thing. However, what modifications (if any) will I have to make at the plenum or the register to accommodate the larger duct? And, what effect (if any) will the larger duct have on the other rooms that are serviced by this same unit? I don't believe there are dampers (at the plenum) on the ducts from this unit. 2. Since I need 30 feet and the ducts come in runs of 25 feet, what is the proper way to splice two runs together? I don't see any type of splice on the current run (maybe they sold them in longer runs back then?) to see how it was done, so I need some advice here. 3. What recommendations can you make toward any special brand or type of flex duct? I know the foil exterior is the way to go to stop heat transfer from the attic to the inside of the duct, but are there any other recommendations? Any advice will definitely be appreciated.
You can still get 7in flex. Adding an 8 you will decrease from the rest of the rooms. You will have to replace the collar and the boot to use the 8 in duct.
Airman's right. Stick with the 7 get the highest R-value you can find. Splices can be made with 7 metal pipe. You may want to run a couple of sections of metal pipe (externally insulated) then connect your flex to that. It would be cheaper than buying 2 boxes of flex.
Thanks airman and Grady. I just went up in my attic and refreshed my memory as to what exactly is up there. I had forgotten that a couple years ago, I had an A/C technician replace some flex duct to another room and there is a 5.5 foot section of 7 flex duct just sitting up there ready to be used. I believe that, along with a new box of 7 flex duct should get me to the 30 feet needed. However, I do have a few more questions: 1. I'm recalling (maybe incorrectly) that the big box stores (HD and Lowes) don't carry 7 flex duct. Would any A/C supply house carry it, or where do you suggest I get it? Are there any recommendations on a brand or type of flex duct? I seem to remember a while back, a local radio show handyman recommending a certain brand of flex duct, although I don't remember what the reason for it was. 2. I couldn't see an R-value on the piece of flex duct that is up there. How do I determine the R-value? What is a good R-value for flex duct? 3. Finally, where do I obtain the 7 metal pipe for the splice? I'm guessing that since I found that 5.5 foot piece and thus, the duct work should cover the full 30 foot run, I won't need the external insulation for the splice. Is that correct? Thanks again guys.
Any HVAC supply house would have the flex pipe as would most plumbing supply houses. I suggest an absolute minimum of R-6 prefer R-8. I don't care about brand but do prefer a mylar jacket to one of vinyl or polyester the silver seems to hold up better than the gray. To make the splice use about a 2' section of pipe slide the pipe 1/2 way into each piece of flex. Work slowly as not to tear the flex liner. Slide the insulation outer jacket back enough to give you room to work wrap the end of each liner with 3 full wraps of UL181 tape. Slide the insulation jacket of each piece of flex up to meet the other. You can wrap this outer joint with the tape or use large zip ties made for the purpose.
I'd never recommend splicing flex duct! It's also against code in my area
Originally Posted by airman.1994 I'd never recommend splicing flex duct! It's also against code in my area Thanks airman, but since I'm not an A/C tech and have never bought flex duct (I've only seen it in the big box stores in runs of 25 feet max and I've also seen it online in runs of 25 feet max), where do you find flex duct in runs longer than 25 feet? Do HVAC supply houses sell it in longer runs? Please help a novice out.
I don't know that I've ever seen flex sold in over 25' lengths. Personally, I wouldn't make a flex run that long but I've seen 'em. There's a lot of friction loss in flex due to the helix construction. If all you want to do is replace an existing run, do it. If you want to upgrade, that's a whole different ball of wax.
Thanks Grady. I wish I could say that is the longest flex duct run in my attic, but it's not even close. I've got what must be a 15 flex duct that runs oh, I'd say anywhere from 40 to 45 feet and goes into a junction box at about 30 feet, where it splits 3 ways. That goes to our master bedroom with a tray ceiling (9 foot in the center) and bathroom. Our master bedroom cools fine in the cooler months and in the evening in the hotter months, but during the day in the summer, it gets very hot in there. I know I need a complete redesign of my bedroom A/C system, and have sought it out in the past, but what I've run into is a lot of maybes and I think(s) with a huge price tag attached. So, I've been unwilling to do it. I guess I haven't found the right A/C technician that both knows what they're doing and has the equipment to do it properly. So, yes, I'm just looking at a replacement right now of that one flex duct run, hoping that it improves it enough to make my daughter comfortable and get her off my back. If I can get flex duct in a larger run, and it's not cost prohibitive, I'd prefer that, as it would be less labor intensive (i.e. no splice), so, I need airman to let me know if it's a possibility. The bedroom A/C unit in my house was a retrofit back in 1983 when a previous owner added on to the house and installed a 2nd A/C unit and zoned the house. It seems that a poor job was done overall, but from my untrained eye, there may not have been much choice in the placement of the unit, because the attic access is not very good (I have to almost crawl to the unit). The A/C unit servicing the front of the house is fine as it was installed when the house was built in 1970, with metal ducts and very good service access.
I'd run twenty feet of 7 inch hard pipe over two her room then flex from there
Originally Posted by airman.1994 I'd run twenty feet of 7 inch hard pipe over two her room then flex from there Yep. Sounds like a plan to me.
Originally Posted by airman.1994 I'd run twenty feet of 7 inch hard pipe over two her room then flex from there airman and Grady, I don’t want to sound ungrateful, because I truly appreciate the time and advice you’ve given me so far, but that advice is causing me more grief, when the fact is, I came here in hopes of relieving at least some of my grief. I also realize that you guys are giving me the best advice with the hard duct recommendation and that my attic and the current set up of my rear A/C system, along with my lack of experience are what is truly causing me the grief, but it is what it is, and I have to deal with that. Thus, I would greatly appreciate a little more information and input from either or both of you, or anyone else for that matter. First, let me tell you guys that I’ve had numerous A/C contractors in my attic to get some recommendations on improve the efficiency of my rear A/C system. Not a single one of them have suggested hard duct, and only a few of them have recommended replacing the flex ducts. I truly believe that it’s not because they don’t think either would improve the situation; it’s that nobody in their right mind will want to get up there and deal with the lack of work room and head room it would take to run new ducts. With that in mind, here’s what I’ve got (and I’m only going to address the one duct that caused me to come here in the 1st place), along with a few questions (in bold) that follow: 1. This duct comes off the top of the plenum and immediately makes a 90 degree turn. I’m sure there is some airflow loss right there, but even worse, I can’t even get to it, because of 2 other ducts coming off the plenum and various support boards coming off the roof. I’d have to remove the other 2 flex ducts from the plenum and then literally crawl and balance on the beams to get to the duct in question. 2. The duct then goes about 8-10 feet, over and under those other ducts, and is hung up to the rafters with some sort of wire cable (more loss of airflow, I’m sure). 3. Then, the duct makes another 90 degree turn to head in almost a straight line to the register, approximately 20 feet away. That long run is where the duct is the most accessible, but there is still not ideal space for putting together and wrapping hard duct, but I think it can be done. 4. Finally, at the register, there appears to be a 90 degree hard duct transition that attaches the flex duct to the register. 5. I have located 5 foot sections of 7” 30 gauge hard duct at the local Lowes at an affordable price. I’ve also found 3 foot sections of 7” 26 gauge hard duct online that is around the same cost as the 5-footers at Lowes. I haven’t checked with any local supply houses, because I just don’t know who to contact, but I plan to do that as well. Besides the obvious (i.e. thickness), what are the benefits of the 26 gauge vs. the 30 gauge, and do you recommend one over the other (with cost and effort putting it together being factors)? 6. Would you recommend against running flex from the plenum and then hard duct to the register? Because of the access issues, this seems more doable than the other way, which is how I understood your last post. 7. I have specific questions about putting the hard duct run together. I know that you use sheet metal screws, mastic, and the UL181 tape at the joints, but how is the mastic applied? Is it just over the joint after the screws, or do you also put the mastic on the inside of the joint before the screws, as well? Finally, on the insulated duct wrap, how is that closed off and secured around the hard duct? With some UL181 tape, or what? And, how tight does it need to be?
26 vs. 30 ga.: Not a big deal with 7 pipe. 30 is easier to cut but not as rigid. Durability is not likely an issue but being thicker, obviously 26 is going to last longer. Yes, I would recommend against starting at the plenum with flex. If you are going to use flex it should be at the register end for air flow restriction sound deadening purposes. Mastic is usually applied with a brush. Once the pipe is put together screwed, then apply the mastic. No need to put it on the male ends prior to assembly. The duct wrap should be installed snugly but not so tight as to compress it. The overlap should be secured with outward clinching staples then sealed with UL181 tape which is squeegied (sp?) down. An easy but somewhat expensive way to insulate metal pipe is to pull flex over it. That way you don't have seams to deal with.
Originally Posted by Grady Yes, I would recommend against starting at the plenum with flex. If you are going to use flex it should be at the register end for air flow restriction sound deadening purposes. Thank you, thank you, thank you, Grady. All but the above were extremely helpful. I just don't see how I can start at the plenum with hard duct. There is just little to no room. I'll go up there and give it another looksie, but I'm not optimistic. While I understand it would not be ideal, would a flex run at each end with a long hard duct run in the middle be a better alternative than just a flex duct run of 30 feet? Originally Posted by Grady An easy but somewhat expensive way to insulate metal pipe is to pull flex over it. That way you don't have seams to deal with. Just a thought, but what size flex duct would I need to pull over the 7 hard duct? Would I go same size (i.e. 7) or would I need slightly larger (i.e. 8)?
I fully understand your problem in starting with metal at the plenum. Sometimes it's impractical, bordering on impossible. Been there, done that. If you feel you must use flex, keep it as short as possible but not so short as to create kinks then go to the metal. If you want to terminate with a 3 foot or so of flex that's okay too. Use the same size flex as is the metal. It will be snug but can be worked onto the metal. I have seen people pull out the wire helix liner to make it easier but you have to be careful not to bunch up or rip the fiberglass.
Originally Posted by Grady I fully understand your problem in starting with metal at the plenum. Sometimes it's impractical, bordering on impossible. Been there, done that. If you feel you must use flex, keep it as short as possible but not so short as to create kinks then go to the metal. If you want to terminate with a 3 foot or so of flex that's okay too. Use the same size flex as is the metal. It will be snug but can be worked onto the metal. I have seen people pull out the wire helix liner to make it easier but you have to be careful not to bunch up or rip the fiberglass. Thanks Grady. That's the type of advice I was hoping for. Now, for grins , I went up in my attic for another looksie (to check for room to move) and I took my camera with me, so I could share with others. See the attached photos for an idea of what I will be dealing with to change out one run of flex duct. In case the photos don't accurately reflect it for others, I cannot stand up at all in this area of my attic. Any ideas or feedback will be greatly appreciated.
That flex is awful. Flex should be strapped and pulled tight. That's one reason u have no airflow.
Originally Posted by airman.1994 That flex is awful. Flex should be strapped and pulled tight. That's one reason u have no airflow. Agreed. Also flex should never be allowed to rest on other flex runs. To do so often crushes both runs. Something you pointed out in the second photo is the flex being suspended with wire. This too is a MAJOR no-no. When flex is suspended it must be done with webbed material similar to lawn chair material of at least 3 wide run so as to support at least 2 wire wraps in the duct. This webbed material is usually black comes on a roll.
Originally Posted by Grady Originally Posted by airman.1994 That flex is awful. Flex should be strapped and pulled tight. That's one reason u have no airflow. Agreed. Also flex should never be allowed to rest on other flex runs. To do so often crushes both runs. Something you pointed out in the second photo is the flex being suspended with wire. This too is a MAJOR no-no. When flex is suspended it must be done with webbed material similar to lawn chair material of at least 3 wide run so as to support at least 2 wire wraps in the duct. This webbed material is usually black comes on a roll. Thanks again guys for the valuable information. I've been in this house since 1992 and the only flex duct that's been installed since I've been here is the foil one, which is neither strapped or pulled tight, and runs up over a rafter (i.e. kinked) and back down to a register right in front of the furnace. That register is actually a short distance from the plenum, but because of its close proximity to the furnace, the flex duct length is probably triple what it could be if run straight to the register. No complaints from the occupant of that room, however, and by feel, the airflow seems fine. The pictures go to show you both, if anything at all, that although there's been plenty of opportunity for almost 20 years, no A/C contractor has wanted to make my ducts right on this unit. The question still remains though: With the limited access and space, will I be able to run hard duct (to replace the old gray flex) around the plenum area? I know you guys are seeing it in one-dimensional photos, but from what you see, is it something you could see yourself tackling with success? I am pretty handy and very determined to do things the right way (in case you haven't figured that out yet . . . lol), but I'm not stupid and don't want to try to tackle something that is next to impossible. I can almost envision doing it with several 90 degree turns before getting to the long straight run. Plus, correct me if I'm wrong, but it would seem more appropriate for the hard duct to run under the flex duct, so the flex duct could be properly strapped up above it. Is that a proper way of looking at it? Also, can the hard duct lay on the attic floor across the rafters, or does it too need to be strapped up? I will definitely check into the strapping material.
My attic isn't quite that tight but close. Is there any way to run a trunk duct then have the individual branches come off of it as opposed to what appears to be a system with all or most of the branches coming off the plenum? From what I see, I would have to believe you'd have to install the branches work the trunk back to the furnace as you backed out. Hard duct can rest on the floor or ceiling joists without worry as long as it is well insulated. Wherever flex crosses the hard duct the flex needs to be supported. I hate to say this for fear of sounding like a salesman but at 20+ years old, the equipment itself has to be getting long in the tooth. It wouldn't cost anything to have a few contractors come in quote you on a new system, duct work all.
Originally Posted by Grady My attic isn't quite that tight but close. Is there any way to run a trunk duct then have the individual branches come off of it as opposed to what appears to be a system with all or most of the branches coming off the plenum? From what I see, I would have to believe you'd have to install the branches work the trunk back to the furnace as you backed out. Not sure I understand what you are describing, but let me take a stab at it. Are you saying that I should run a large single trunk duct off the plenum, closing off the remaining holes on the plenum, and then branch off that large trunk duct to the registers? If so, that would be way beyond my expertise. Just closing up the existing holes would concern me. However, I will keep that in mind for when I finally do get an A/C contractor that will go the extra mile to make that system right. Also, I should probably go up into my attic from the other side (there is another access from the master bedroom, but it is not as easy to use [i.e. need a ladder]) and shoot some photos. That would give you a more complete picture of the plenum. There is a bit more room coming from that side, but it's a long haul (about 35 feet give or take) from the attic access to the plenum. Originally Posted by Grady I hate to say this for fear of sounding like a salesman but at 20+ years old, the equipment itself has to be getting long in the tooth. It wouldn't cost anything to have a few contractors come in quote you on a new system, duct work all. LOL Don't worry about sounding like a salesman. Truth be told, the only things that are 20+ years old on that unit are the furnace and the duct work (excluding the foil duct). American Standard condenser unit was installed in 2002 after a hailstorm damaged the old Coleman unit. The current unit has a 10-year warranty. The evaporator coil was replaced in August 2006. I just looked at the invoice and it says very tight work area, which gave me a chuckle. I couldn't locate the invoice for the foil flex duct, but I believe it was done 2-3 years after the coil, so 2008 or 2009.
I'd say u have no warranty manufactures do not warranty there equipment on mis matched systems.
Originally Posted by airman.1994 I'd say u have no warranty manufactures do not warranty there equipment on mis matched systems. A bit off topic, and I'm not sure why you're going there, airman, but you are wrong in this instance, as I've already made 2 warranty claims and American Standard paid them both, the last one being the replacement of the compressor in January 2010.
I have found a new brand for home juicer... The Breville BJE510XL is such a wonderful juicer in the world.. I hope all of you can experience also like what I've experienced.
Wow Kim, I think I need that juicer for when I'm up in my steaming hot attic replacing my flex ducts. Thanks a bunch. Grady, below are a couple of photos from the other side of the plenum. These were taken from the attic access back in the master bedroom. The plenum is about 30 feet away, but I used a zoom lens to bring it closer to view. Knowing what I know now, after the advice I've received here, my flex ducts on this unit are a complete and utter mess. I think I've mentioned previously that the master bedroom gets unbearably warm in the late afternoon during the hotter times of the year. I think I see at least one reason why (i.e. the ducts). A good fan, the fact that it cools down pretty well after the sun goes down, and the fact that I haven't been able to find a contractor to remedy the problem up to now, has caused me to just live with it. However, I'm ready to do something about it now. I'm going to renew my search for an A/C contractor. Can you give me any advice on find one both WILLING and ABLE to do the work and do it properly? And, do you think I should insist on hard ducts, maybe with a short run of flex at each register?
Like trying to find any kind of contractor, I suggest talking to friends, neighbors, relatives, co-workers, etc. about whom they've had do similar work how well satisfied they were or were not. I would much prefer hard duct, mastic sealed externally insulated, with a short run of flex if so desired to the register.
Tags: replacing, flex, duct, flex duct, hard duct, Originally Posted, flex duct, airman 1994, Originally Posted airman, Originally Posted airman 1994, Originally Posted Grady, Posted airman, Posted airman 1994, Posted Grady
Has anyone installed there own basement perimeter drainage system, does it work? I figure its a relatively inexensive piece of mind before i finish my basement on my 50 yr old house. I remember seeing magazine advertisements for the channels, etc, for a diy install. I would be linking it to a sump pump. If you have done it please post how the install went. thanks.
My fathers basement used to get water when it rained hard. Sometimes it would get as much as .5-1 throughout. We cut the concrete around the perimeter 24 from the wall, then removed the concrete and 18 of dirt. We put in 6 of stone, perforated pipe to a sump crock, then filled the trench with stone and put 4 of concrete over it. The basement has been bone dry since, and that was 20 plus years ago. I have to add that we are contractors so we have an advantage over the typical homeowner, but other than a ton of bull work it is not too hard.
I guess I should be a little more detailed. The drainage system I was looking at was a plastic or metal channel that you adhere to the floor perimeter of the basment. Bill62's suggestion is certainly one of the best choices, but not something I can do myself easily or afford to do.
The junk on a floor (or a srface trench) is not a drainage sytem. It is just cheap collection sytem that collects water after it leaks in and does nothing to reduce the pressure, water and moisture under the floor. The only good draiange system is instaled about or below the footings and consists of perforated pvc pipe, sone and sand with new floor sections poured over it. It can lead to a sump or a daylight drain is the situation permits. A real system removes the water before it leaks, cracks concrete floors and raises the humidity. I did mine myself with some help from my 12 year old son and a few buddies. Dick
the drainage systems that you are contemplating will still leave you with moisture problems in your basement, doing the perimeter drainage system your self with a saw or concrete hammer is not that expensive to rent, the only problem is the hard physical work of cutting out the old concrete and replacing it. life begins when the kids leave home and the dog dies
I was wondering if anyone has attempted to make their own sewer drain line camera? I've seen a couple of them on ebay over the years for a few hundred or so that don't seem too difficult to put together if one wants to trace down the materials. They all seem to use an inexpensive bullet type waterproof camera in a simple housing and some hollow tubing to run the camera cable/power cord. You'll see them on ebay if you search for sewer camera. You can google for pushline sewer cameras and find others. I read one posting somewhere about someone using the camera that Harbor Freight has sold for years. I've seen it for sale elsewhere too. It's yellow in color and mostly marketed to boaters---comes with a small monitor. If you search their site for camera, you'll see it. You have to cut off the fin and weight-thing to use it for a drain line. The cable is only 65 feet though. I'd rather make my own as I could choose the components myself. I think the most important parts to choose correctly are the camera (it would need LED lights and a waterproof enclosure and need to have a small diameter and length and appropriate optic specs to allow focusing very closeup) and the flexible head at the camera end. If there are any do-it-yourselfers out there that find this project interesting, let's get a discussion going and figure out do this. I think every homeowner could benefit from having a drain line camera.
Take a look here DIY sewer drain inspection camera - a set on Flickr
That Flickr posting looks like the whole thing probably only cost $50. It doesn't look like it would make turns very easily though. The posted videos only show it going straight down and up. I'll bet a more rigid hose would help or you could add something flexible around the last foot or so. I wouldn't mind spending more than $30. for the camera if it had 100 feet of cable and was ready-to-go instead of having to do the solder connections.
I've been looking at some of the very expensive professional drain cameras and some use a compression spring at the end of the cable. That spring allows the camera to make turns. The power lines for the camera run through that spring. The head of the camera sits at the end of the spring. I would think a spring about 6 to 12 long, about 1 diameter would do the trick (about the same width as the camera). Springs are fairly cheap so maybe have to experiment with a few different sizes. The camera head would probably need something to protect its edges as it would hit the inside of the pipe frequently as it makes turns. Maybe a PVC coupling of some kind. I've noticed expensive systems have replaceable glass lens for the cameras so they must get scratched up a lot. But, something a DIY'er would build for home use wouldn't get that much wear and tear. In terms of cable, I would think something about 1/4 to 1/2 in diameter would suffice. It would have to be large enough to allow running the power line to the camera. I've never used PEX tubing before but maybe that would work. It's cheap and could be experimented with. When I see PEX coiled up in the stores, it looks very rigid and hard to get the curl out of it so maybe it wouldn't be flexible enough. I think there is a kind of PEX with aluminum in the center. Maybe that would be more flexible.
Harbor Freight, fishing camera around $99 which takes you 60' with a B/W monitor. Cable though isn't stiff so you'd have to do something to encase and give it rigidity.
I've made one with the system from harbor freight but changed the camera to a smaller one. and ran cat 5 wire through the pipe to make it 100 ft. I'm using 1/2 OD pex pipe. It works pretty good but the cable really needs to be a little stiffer. any suggestions for this. also I saw something about a spring for the end. What type did you use. I'll be glad to send the info. on the system I built. Thanks stevofle
I found the camera at harbor freight when it was on special for $69.00. I discovered I really don't need this system but the tv, battery and carry bag are a nice set up to have even if you don't use the camera or wire. Mainly what you need is a small tv with video in put, 100 ft of 1/2 od Pex pipe 100 ft of Cat-5 or 6 wire a small camera Ebay $29.00) and all the connectors to change cat- wire to video in put wire (radioshack). I use this camera a lot on plumbing jobs. I am looking for a stiffer cable because the pex pipe tends to kink once it's up the line if there are tight turns or obstructions. Picture is great, can clearly see roots, cloggs and anything you might find in a sewer line. Before I made this I spent $350.00 to $500.00 every time I had trouble with a sewer line and was trying to convince the homeowner to replace the line, now they can see the problem and can put that money toward the line replacement or can just repair the problem. Mod note: Inviting off forum conversation is frowned upon so everyone can see.
Thread closed. Any questions on sewer video cameras please start a new post.
Tags: make, your, inexpensive, sewer, drain, camera, drain line, line camera, about diameter, about diameter would, diameter would
We have a vinyl (plastic to me) shower stall. We want to remove it. Any suggestions on where to start and go about it? We know about the plumbing but WHERE do you start with the removing the stall itself. And are there any special tips? We want to remove it to put up tile walls. We are do-it-yourselfers and my husband has done a lot, but this one seems confusing. I've googled and checked everywhere but can't find any place that actually tells remove the stall itself and what to watch out for. Mek
Well first question everyone will need to know is it a one piece shower/tub or is it a 4 piece, that meaning the tub, front wall, back wall, and side wall are seperate?! Does it have any seems and caulking in those seems?? If so, you probably have a 4 pc. tub. I would start thereI haven't taken one of these out but I did just renovate my bathroom and took out a porc. tub w/ the walls that were the fake tile. That was easy except the tub weighed about 350lbs!!! I then installed a new tub from lowes that was a 4 pc. unit. The tub was installed then the walls were snapped into the tub. If it is a one piece that will be difficult b/c you'll have to cut the tub surround off of the tub!! I think there are also 2 pc tubs but not sure. That is the tub then the wall surround all together!! Good luck I am also a do it yourselfer but this is just from what I learned w/ my own research and renovations.
Reciprocating saw, cut it into 3 vertical pieces to the base, then around the base, remove the middle piece, then the two ends then the bottom. You will find the bottom to be quite heavy as it will be embedded in concrete, so undo the drain and remove it vertically.
Chandler's methodology is right on - though I prefer to use a circular saw adjusted so it barely cuts through the plastic of the tub surround - Recip saws can cut deep - and the chance of hitting stray piping/electrical wiring in the wall makes me nervous.
What is going to be buried in concrete?? They are just removing the walls, not the tub! They are just going to install tile tub walls!? Am I missing something? I hope I didn't give bad advice!
OP says shower stall, not tub. The shower pan will be imbedded in thinset if properly installed. that is why I don't cut through the base. Wastes blades, and throws sparks.
This is just a shower stall - no tub. And if it's like anything else the former owner did, NOTHING is imbedded in anything. However, because of how they did things, everything seems to end up very involved. It is a one piece shower stall - even the bottom is incorporated into the sides - no seams from what we can tell. So, it seems that we obviously take the doors and frame off first, then take out the drain and all the plumbing from inside the stall, then proceed carefully with a saw? My husband is handy but I've gotten into the home improvement stuff too lately. He's been putting this one off - maybe now we'll start. Thanks for all the input.
So like they said above you would have to make a nice clean cut around the bottom or where ever you want your tile to start. Be careful of electrical wires!!! That might hurt!! After you get the tile up you'll have to put some kind of molding so to speak over the seem where the tile meets the shower stall base!! You might be better off just ripping that whole thing out and just buying a shower stall base. I found this on lowes.com but if yours isn't a corner stall then this won't work. http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...0-0lpage=none Good Luck Home renovations/repairs are so much fun!! Wish I had the money and didn't have to work I would do them all the time!!
The OP won't be leaving the base, but probably replacing the entire unit with a new one. Cutting around the existing base clean enough to retile may be a PITA, but maybe an option.
How do I replace the ceramic top on my GE electric stove? The top is cracked and broken in many places because a heavy object was dropped on it. Only one burner does not have a crack across the surface. Does the top have screws or bolts from the bottom? Does it just sit on top of the seal, so that it can be lifted out of the recess around the edge of the the stove top? I have ordered the new replacement top, so I am hoping that I can replace it myself. Thanks for your help.
Originally Posted by jfevans How do I replace the ceramic top on my GE electric stove? The top is cracked and broken in many places because a heavy object was dropped on it. Only one burner does not have a crack across the surface. Does the top have screws or bolts from the bottom? Does it just sit on top of the seal, so that it can be lifted out of the recess around the edge of the the stove top? I have ordered the new replacement top, so I am hoping that I can replace it myself. Thanks for your help. *****Did you replace your stove top and if so how was it done. I dropped a cabinet door on it and it is cracked very bad. Please let me know if possible that I can replace it myself or not. NC Lawman
open the oven door look up and you will see screws. Undo them. Slowly lift top up as far as you can, probably a few inches only. With a stubby screw driver undo the elements from the range cooktop. Undo whichever wires are needed to free the old top completley. I would start the old screws in the new cooktop first while it is off the stove it makes it easier during the re-instal process.
well, looks like i'm not the only person who has encountered this problem . . . jfevans (or whomever), where does one order a ceramic top for a ge stove? i also decided to break mine with a cabinet door.
after checking the ge website, i've come to realize that my stove doesn't exist. the model number (which is located on the upper left corner of the storage door) is j bs55w0k1ww; which according to ge, does not exist. this seems to be complicating things a lot more than necessary. help. someone. please.
Remove the space between the j b in the model number. I just Googled it and had numerous hits... j bs55w0k1ww to jbs55w0k1ww.
yes, you'll get numerous (7, without omitted results) hits. however, none of them are relevant to anything.
try taking out the 0 between the w and the k. Is your cooktop white? if yes part # WB62T10268 sears- almost $400 repair clinic- $250 ebay-$300 appliance parts pros $223 I have had problems with APP lately.
Tags: electric, stove, ceramic, replacement, replace myself, that replace, that replace myself, across surface, across surface Does, across surface Does have
Hi all, I have some vinyl lattice work I am replacing. The problem is, it needs to be cut. If I use a coping saw, it will take forever and it makes for ragged edges. Could I use a dremel for this to make the work go faster and smoother? Vic
If you have a circular saw you can use a fine tooth paneling blade installed backwards in the saw. Instead of the front sharp edge of the teeth cutting into the material the back edge sort of rubs/melts it's way through with much less chance of chipping. If you have a reciprocating saw (Sawzall) or jigsaw a medium tooth blade will work. A Dremell tool will work but it will be very, very slow. It is more suited to precision, detailed work.
Thanks! I do have a circular saw. Can I get a fine tooth paneling blade (its a Sears saw) at Home Depot if I tell them that's what I need? Sometimes I hit the places and they don't know where things are at or what I need. I've heard of a jigsaw and a reciprocating saw ... which one will give me the nice sharp precise edges? If the Dremell tool is slow, but its going to make it look sharp and not freyed like, I might be interested in that.
You should be able to find blades for your saw almost anywhere (Home Depot, Lowes, True Value and probably even Wal-Mart...). You will need to know the diameter of blade (how big around it is).
Ive used a circular saw and a reciprocating saw and ive found the easiest cleanest method was a large pair of metal snips--the kind that look like huge scissors .
Can you give me the exact name of the tool please? That would help me in finding it. Thanks, Victoria
I know it's been a while, but I just used PilotDane's advice below and it works like a dream. I turned my regular old circular saw blade backwards and it really did kinda melt right through the vinly - beautiful cut. I wrote a quick post on it too -************
This is what you need: Avanti 7-1/4 in. x 140 Tooth OSB/Plywood Circular Saw Blade-A07140A at The Home Depot
Tags: cutting, vinyl, lattice, Home Depot, what need, circular fine, circular fine tooth, circular fine tooth paneling, circular fine tooth paneling blade, Dremell tool
Hello, I want to apply Venetian Plaster to the walls of my kitchen. Can anyone suggest a brand that is good? I want to achieve the best results I can and from what I have read starting with a good brand is important. I found Valspar Venetian Plaster in my area and would love to hear from anyone that has used it. I want to thank anyone who replies for your time and have a nice day.
I just finished my master bedroom using Valspar Signature Venetian Plaster from Lowes. The results were great. I can't say how it compares to other products, as this is the only brand I have used. The job was a lot more work than painting, so be prepared. Your walls need to be very smooth, as any bumps will show through. It took me four coats to cover all the bumps, as I didn't know this. However the additional coats added more texture and made for a great appearance. I recommend putting down a coat of primer in the same color as the plaster for extra insurance against bleeding through. Also, it is easier to cut-in along ceilings and trim with primer then it is with the plaster and a trowel. Make sure to read the fine print on the can. There are a lot of instructions that aren't in the brochure. I would recommend putting down the clear coat sealer for a kitchen to prevent stains. Make sure to dab any thick spots of sealer off with a brush, or they will dry cloudy. The clear coat will make it darker and change the appearance. Practice first on a piece of drywall to get the look you want. If you have any difficult spots to reach with a trowel, you can thin the plaster to a paint like consistency and paint it on with a brush. I had a section of door trim that was one inch from the wall. It was too narrow to trowel. Brushing on the plaster doesn't give the same texture, but such a small area doesn't show. This also works for inside corners, which can be difficult to cover. Good luck!
Thank you so much for the information. I will do just as you said. I too have a very thin area between the door frame and side wall. I am painting the pantry now and then will plaster the kitchen. I hope to have as good results as you did, your help is invaluable. When I have completed this task, I will let you know how it turned out. Have a nice day and a better tomorrow.
That idea of painting the wall the color of the plaster is a good idea. I found that little bumps on the wall would show through with the original color since the plaster is put on so thin. I used the Behr brand and liked it.
The Valspar brand is slightly thinner than the HD's Behr's brand
I being a traditionalist, have a difficult time when I hear people call products that are purchased from Lowes or Home Depot Venetian Plaster. Those are synthetic products made for people who want the look, but not the value of the “real stuff”. Those are FAUX finishes, and do not react the same as authentic Venetian plasters. You will notice an immediate difference in color, shades and durability. Also it will last much longer than any product made by Behr or any of the other synthetic products sold. I’ve used these products on interiors and exteriors and the beauty is as it ages, it actually starts to look better. Also, you defeat the purpose of sealing REAL Venetian Plaster. It’s meant to breathe and absorb moisture that prevents Bacteria, Mold and Mildew from growing. Depending on the kind of VP product you use, you can have a smooth glossy effect or a dull matt finish. Real Italian plaster is made from slacked hydrated lime and marble along with other minerals, and is a “Green Building Product”. There are many companies that sell the real thing, and some are better than others. If anyone wants to know where or what’s out there, let me know and I’ll be glad to help.
Ive used master of plaster brand many times with excellent results.It has a base coat and a finish coat is lime based and qualifies for leed certification.You can go to there website www.masterofplaster.com the manufacturer has been in the business for over 50 years and will answer any question you have.The scagliola work and marrezzo work they have done is spectacular and nothing like asking some one who has really done this work for advice.Also the price is about half of what you pay for imported material for the same quality.Its made in the USA and saves you time and money on prep costs.good luck brian
Tags: venetian, plaster, Venetian Plaster, Behr brand, clear coat, color plaster, from Lowes, have difficult, Make sure, putting down
Just had my water tested (well water) and need a water neutralizer. Have been investigating and have come across two methods. Upflow and downflow neutralizer units. Each has pluses and minuses but I'd like some first hand accounts and experiences to help me make a decision. Comments and opinions please.
If there is iron in the water then the down flow with a backwashing valve is going to be needed.
Acid water can also be treated by injecting a solution made with soda ash. The advantage of soda ash solution injection is that it does not raise the hardness of the water. The downside is that injection requires more maintenance and tending as compared to a neutralizing filter--either upflow or down flow.
@Akpsdvan: Yup got iron, but have a whole house water filter which does an admirable job. @Bob999 : looked at soda ash injector but seems like a lot of care and feeding. In addiiton, the water tank I have is a bladder water tank. I've been told in order to use the injection, I'd have to go to a different type water tank with the input on one side of the tank and and the output on the other side.
What is your actual PH? Calcite only does so much. I have an up flow but I modified it somewhat with a hose bib after the outlet so I can wash out the calcite dust when i add new mineral. I also have some iron and have a 30 micron pre filter before all water treatment. Make sure you get the proper basket on the discharge so you get no calcite in your water system and fixtures. Mike NJ
Injection can be done (and is typically done) on the water line from the well to the bladder tank. The injection pump is wired to the same circuit as the well pump so that it only runs when the well pump is running. I think you got bum information on the connection requirements for injection. But you correctly understand the care and feeding issues of injection. Personally I use a backwashing calcite filter--I think the approach is superior to the upflow filters and potential problems with material getting into the water supply. Calcite alone is normally sufficient down to a pH of about 6 with a mix of calcite and corosex necessary if the pH is lower than 6. If you use a mix of calcite and corosex use the minimum amount of corosex to achieve satisfactory pH, mix the calcite and corosex completely, and ensure regular and complete backwash to avoid cementing. A calcite (or calcite/corosex) filter is normally installed first--before any other filters such as iron or a softener.
@Lawrosa: One of the concerns about up-flow for me is the need to screen or filter material from entering the water supply. They have to be cleaned/replaced periodically as the affect water flow. However, I understand that the need to back-wash is minimal. @Bob999: You are suggesting that a whole house filter be installed AFTER the neutralizer? That seems counter intuitive to me. Why would you do it that way?
Once you get the head you can make it up flow or down flow. You can get a down flow and a manual backwash valve. http://www.lancasterpump.com/documents/updown.pdf Mike NJ
An acid neutralizing filter is a whole house filter. What I was saying for situations that have more than one whole house filter is that the AN filter is typically first, followed by, in your case, the iron filter and then, if there is one, a softener.
Tags: acid, water, neutralizer, calcite corosex, down flow, whole house, house filter, water tank, whole house filter, care feeding, flow down
Wayne Dalton has been manufacturing residential and commercial garage doors since 1954. Wayne Dalton partners with the Genie Company to provide their customers with reliable, easy-to-use radio-controlled garage door openers. If the Genie remote used to open your Wayne Dalton garage door stops working, don't contact Wayne Dalton or Genie for a replacement remote just yet. A little bit of common-sense troubleshooting is usually all it takes to get your Dalton garage door opener remote working again. The process is simply a matter of replacing the remote's battery, then synchronizing the remote to the head unit.
Instructions
1. Replace the battery in your Wayne Dalton garage door opener remote. Locate the plastic locking latch on the bottom edge of the remote, just below the battery cover. Push in on the latch with a jeweler's flat-head screwdriver or ballpoint pin to release it and slide the cover toward the bottom of the remote to access the remote's battery compartment.
2. Take the old battery out of the battery compartment; pry the battery free with the jeweler's screwdriver, if necessary. Throw the battery away or recycle it if the appropriate facilities exist in your area.
3. Clean the remote's battery contacts to remove any corrosive residue; if allowed to remain, the residue may make it difficult for the battery to complete an electrical circuit. Rub the battery contacts with a cotton swab that has been dampened in white vinegar. Wipe away any loose residue with a dry tissue.
4. Place a new A23, 12-volt alkaline battery into the battery compartment of your garage door opener remote. Orient the battery according to the polarity indicated inside the battery compartment. Slide the battery compartment cover back into place.
5. Resynchronize the remote to the garage door opener's power head unit. Examine the power head unit to locate the Learn button; press it. Note that the light-emitting diode (LED) adjacent to the button will begin to flash. Press and release the button on the remote that you want to use to operate the garage door opener. Press the same button a second time; the LED light will turn off to confirm that the remote has been successfully resynchronized.
Tips Warnings
Test the remote to see if your troubleshooting was successful. Press the remote button that you programmed to operate your garage door opener; the door should move. Press the button again to stop, close or reverse the garage door.
If these troubleshooting steps don't resolve your issue with your garage door opener remote, contact Wayne Dalton or Genie directly for additional troubleshooting advice or to obtain a new remote.
Tea tree oil has been used for centuries to treat skin infections
Tea tree oil is derived from an Australian native tree the Melaleuca alternifolia, a member of the myrtle family. Tea tree oil is commonly used for skin and nail bacterial, fungal or viral infections. Tea tree oil contains 100 bio-active components. Terpinen-4-ol in tea tree oil causes antimicrobial activity and suppresses an inflammatory mediator. However, tea tree oil should be used with care as a number of problems have been reported.
Allergy
Tea tree oil is found in a number of commercial products, but tea tree oil can cause an allergic reaction in some patients. An Australian study published in 2007 in The Australasian Journal of Dermatology showed that 1.8 percent of patients had a positive patch test to oxidized tea tree oil, with 20 percent previously having used neat tea tree oil prior to the reaction. It is thought that the allergic reaction may be due to either contaminants or oxidation products.
Antibiotic Resistance
Tea tree oil is known to have a broad antimicrobial activity. This antimicrobial activity also includes bacteria such as MRSA and E.coli. A study by Ann McMahon and colleagues in 2007 and published in Journal of Antimicrobial Chemotherapy showed that though tea tree oil is an effective antimicrobial agent, inappropriate low concentrations of tea tree oil may contribute to antibiotic resistance in human pathogens.
Toxicity
Tea tree oil is toxic if swallowed, both for humans and pets. Case studies have shown that if tea tree oil if swallowed it can lead to neurological problems, vomiting, drowsiness and possibly coma. Data has shown that tea tree oil can be toxic in cats and dogs, particularly if the product is used incorrectly. Cats appear to be able to absorb tea tree oil through their skin causing toxicity, though they may absorb the oil while grooming. There is no known antidote to tea tree oil with the only treatment being supportive care.
Pregnancy and Hormones
The National Institute of Health indicates that there is no evidence that tea tree oil is safe either during pregnancy or childbirth. Tea tree oil may interfere with the strength of contractions and should therefore be avoided during child birth. A study published in The New England Journal of Medicine in 2007 described three cases where young boys had developed breasts, or gynecomastia, after using commercially available products containing lavender oil with tea tree oil. The study found that both lavender oil and tea tree oil altered the boys' sex hormones levels.
The Pinnacle Dazzle DVC 100 DVD Recorder allows you to transfer video to a DVD using your personal computer. Through the use of the DVC 100 device and the Pinnacle Dazzle DVC 100 DVD Recorder software, you can burn video directly to a DVD without having to copy the files to your PC first. DVDs burned with the Dazzle DVC 100 can then be used on any DVD player once the video has been burned to it.
Instructions
1. Install and launch the Pinnacle Dazzle DVC 100 software onto your PC. Load the supplied DVD-Rom into your computer's DVD drive and follow the installation instructions.
2. Plug the video camera device into the Dazzle DVC 100 Recorder device. Use the appropriate cable connections, depending on the type of video device, to connect the device to the Video Composite or S-Video port as well as the right and left audio ports.
3. Connect your DVD burner device to your computer via USB connection.
4. Select the video camera device from the drop-down menu in the main application window, and then click Next. The application will automatically detect the device and place it in the menu listing.
5. Select your DVD burner device from the drop-down labeled Detected DVD Recorder, then click Next. As long as your DVD burner device is connected and turned on, the application will automatically detect the device and place it in the menu listing.
6. Select your desired your menu style from the options on the next screen, then click Next.
7. Click Start Recording. You will then see your video recording on the display screen in the main application window.
When you hear a rapid ticking sound coming from the engine, there is an issue with the rocker arms. More often than not, the ticking sound occurs because of low engine oil levels. If you check the oil and the ticking sound persists, then chances are you are having an issue with one or more of the rocker arms, and you need to replace the ones that are having an issue. It does not take very ling to replace a rocker arm and you can complete the project in your driveway.
Instructions
1. Open the engine compartment of the automobile and disconnect the negative battery cable. Snap the lid off the air cleaner assembly and remove the air filter. Remove the retaining nuts with a socket and ratchet and lift the assembly from the engine. Label each of the spark plug wires using the marker and masking tape noting the proper location of each.
2. Grasp the spark plug wire by the boot and pull each wire from the spark plug. Do not pull by the wire or you will damage it. Remove the wires from the organizing clips and out of your way. Unhook the throttle cables from the throttle body. Remove the cable bracket from the intake plenum using a wrench and position it out of the way.
3. Remove the bolts from the valve cover using a socket and ratchet. Lift the valve cover away from the cylinder head. Remove the nuts from the affected rocker arms using a socket and ratchet. Remove the ball and rocker arms from the cylinder head. Remove the valve cover gasket and discard it. Clean any remaining material away with the scraper.
4. Install the new rocker arms and torque the nuts to 22 foot pounds with the torque wrench. Install a new valve cover gasket on the cylinder head. Place the valve cover over the new gasket. Install the bolts and tighten them with the socket and ratchet. Install the throttle cable bracket to the intake plenum and tighten it with a wrench.
5. Hook the throttle cables to the throttle body. Plug each spark plug wire onto the proper spark plug according to the labels you made when removing them. Push each wire on by the boot until you feel it snap into place. Connect the spark plug wires to the organizing clips.
6. Place the air cleaner on the engine and secure it by tightening the nuts with a wrench. Place the air filter into the casing and snap the lid into place. Connect the negative battery cable and tighten the terminal nut with a wrench.
One of the more common problems with the fuel system of a Harley-Davidson motorcycle can be the failure of the fuel pump. If the fuel pump fails, your engine will not receive the fuel it needs to operate and your engine will not run. Removing your fuel pump is a fairly straight-forward process and can be easily done at home.
Instructions
1. Move your motorcycle to a flat, dry surface. Ensure you working area is well ventilated to dissipate any fuel vapors. As a safety precaution, keep a fire extinguisher nearby.
2. Remove your seat(s). The rear seat is removed by turning the bolt behind the seat counterclockwise. On newer models this is done with your fingers, but can require an Allen wrench or socket wrench on custom or older models. Gently pull the rear seat back and up to remove. This will reveal the front seat bolts, which come off in a similar fashion. Gently pull the front seat towards the rear and up.
3. Consult your owner's manual and locate the fuse box. Remove the fuse for the fuel pump. Your owner's manual or a chart on the fuse box cover should indicate which one. Once the fuse is removed, start your engine and let it run until the engine dies. This will depressurise your fuel lines and remove any residual fuel from the lines.
4. Locate your battery, which was uncovered by removal of the seat, and disconnect the negative (black) cable. Depending on the model of your motorcycle, you may need to use an open-ended wrench or a screwdriver. Wrap the cable end in a shop towel to prevent accidental completion of the circuit and damage to your finish.
5. Remove the fuel tank console by locating the nut between the speedometer and the ignition switch. Remove with a 3/8-inch socket wrench. Custom or after-market consoles can sometimes require an Allen wrench. Gently lift the console up and disconnect the console wiring by unplugging the wires from the receivers. This will reveal the top plate of your fuel pump.
6. Use the siphon pump and hose to siphon the fuel out of your tank and into a fuel storage container. Consult the siphon pump's documentation for detailed instructions and warnings.
7. Disconnect the wiring harness from the plug in the fuel pump top plate. Then remove the bolts securing the top plate. Depending on the model, this will require a Torx wrench or an Allen wrench. Then pull the top plate away from the fuel tank. It will still be connected to the fuel pump and wires, so do so carefully, and do not force it.
8. Use your pliers to loosen the clamp on the fuel hose and disconnect the hose. Reach into the tank and gently remove the fuel pump from the housing, and then remove the pump and the top plate from the tank.
Tips Warnings
These instructions are based on a Harley-Davidson Softail, model years 2003 to 2010. Other models will be similar, but may require different tools and steps.
Working with gasoline, which is highly flammable, can be very dangerous and cause death or serious injury. If you have any doubts about your ability to perform these actions, do not attempt them.
Part cookie and part ice cream, the ice cream sandwich is an established favorite frozen treat easily found in grocery stores. It isn't talked about much as a homemade treat, but a cook can form ice cream sandwiches out of a cake-based cookie dough.
Instructions
1. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees Fahrenheit. Beat the egg, shortening, butter, vanilla and half of the cake mix in a mixing bowl. When the mix is smooth, stir in the remaining cake mix until it is well combined.
2. Roll the dough out and cut it into a rectangular shape. Place the dough on an ungreased baking sheet and let it cook for 8 to 10 minutes.
3. Use a fork to poke holes in the top of each cookie as soon as they are done cooking. Cool them on a cookie sheet for 2 minutes, then put them on a wire rack to cool completely.
4. Soften but do not melt the ice cream. Spread the ice cream on the flat side of one cookie. Place another cookie on top of the ice cream. Wrap each sandwich in plastic wrap. Store them in the freezer until they are ready to be served.
Tips Warnings
Include the kids when making this fun recipe. They can help spread the ice cream and wrap the sandwiches. They will be very proud of their homemade treat!
White vinegar can remove cranberry juice from suede.
Suede boots can prove troublesome when it comes to stain removal because suede is a coarse, porous material. As a result, you cannot simply wipe stains away, but will need to use the right solutions and apply a bit of elbow grease. Cranberry juice stains can really create headaches because they tend to cling stubbornly to all types of surfaces. The sooner you act, the easier your job will be.
Instructions
1. Remove any remaining liquid from the suede boot. Gently dab the affected area with a towel until the boot dries.
2. Rub the dried stain with a pencil eraser. This will loosen the particles without harming the suede surface. Scrub the stain firmly with a suede brush. This will further loosen the stain.
3. Apply a few drops of white vinegar to a soft cloth and scrub the stain. White vinegar is a powerful cleaning solvent, safe for suede boots, and recommended by Good Housekeeping as an effective weapon against cranberry juice stains. Your suede boot will smell of vinegar for a short time, but the strong scent will dissipate.
4. Place your suede boot in the sun to air dry. If you do not allow the boot to dry properly, it may become subject to mildew growth. Accelerate the drying process by placing the boot near a portable fan.
Tips Warnings
When dealing with fresh stains, you can prevent the stain from setting by absorbing it quickly.
If vinegar fails to fully remove the stain, try buffing the boot with a slightly-dampened cloth, sprinkled with a baking soda. Baking soda also works as a powerful cleaning solvent (thanks to its active ingredient, sodium bicarbonate), and will not harm your suede if used sparingly with minimal water.
Do not rub the wet stain, as doing so can spread it and make the problem worse.
When applying any liquid (including vinegar) to suede, apply the least amount possible to clean the stain. If you apply too much liquid to suede, it will lose its texture. The drier your cleaning method, the better.
Suede is a lovely material - warm, soft and cuddly. Too bad it's such a terrible beast to clean. In general, have suede garments professionally cleaned. This can be costly but the most effective way to ensure the safety of your fabric. If you must clean your own, follow these guidelines.
Instructions
1. Rub suede gently with a bath towel to restore some of its nap.
2. Remove dry stains and marks from suede by gently rubbing a pencil eraser on the affected area. For wet stains lay a papertowel on top of stain to absorb most of the liquid. Do not apply any kind of stain remover or other products, especially if you want to have it professionally cleaned. This can interfere with the cleaning process.
3. Brush with a suede brush.
4. Apply a small amount of white vinegar to a lightly dampened cloth as a last resort for cleaning suede shoes.
5. Gently rub the surface of the shoe with the cloth, then allow it to air dry.
6. Remember that stains on leather and suede should be professionally treated. This is always the best option. You never know how the leather was treated during the making of your fabric and what will happen if you try to clean it yourself.
Tips Warnings
Pre-treat suede with a leather protection spray before use.
Leather and suede garments should be professionally cleaned at least every two years. Drop off your garment during the season you are not using it. This will guarantee that your garment is ready when you need it.
Note that suede shoes treated with white vinegar may have a mild odor after cleaning.
Making a kid's shoe rack is a wise way to keep dirty sneakers and boots off of a clean floor. You can construct a standard shoe rack in a matter of an hour or two. The trick to making a kid's shoe rack is to make it low enough for a small child to access it. Building a shoe rack so it extends out from an interior wall also reduces the traditional space necessary for installation.
Instructions
1. Slide on work gloves, safety glasses and a dust mask to protect your skin, eyes and lungs. Measure the width of the wall to which you intend to attach the rack. For example, say the width is 36 inches.
2. Measure and cut one 1/2 inch wood piece to 3-inch-by-30-inch dimensions. Measure and cut one 1/2-inch wood piece to 6-inch-by-30-inch dimensions.
3. Sand the wood pieces with 80 to 120 grit paper. Take the wood pieces outside into a well-ventilated area. Brush all sides of each piece with wood stain. Apply the stain with a synthetic fiber brush. Allow six hours for the pieces to dry before moving on.
4. Place one of the 3-inch-by-30-inch pieces on a flat surface so one of the 30-inch edges is facing you. Place the tip of the measuring tape at the top left corner. Measure 7 1/2-inches toward center. Position one 2-inch-by-2-inch L-bracket at this point. Make the bracket is flush with its respective long side edge. Screw one side of the bracket to the wood with 1/4-inch screws.
5. Measure in 22.5 inches from the top left corner. Position one 2-inch-by-2-inch L-bracket at this point. Make the bracket flush with its respective long side edge. Screw one side of the bracket to the wood with 1/4-inch screws.
6. Place one of the 6-inch-by-30-inch pieces on a flat surface so one of the 30-inch edges is facing you. Place the tip of the measuring tape at the top left corner. Measure 7.5 inches toward center. Position one 3-inch-by-3-inch L-bracket at this point. Make the bracket flush with its respective long side edge. Screw one side of the bracket to the wood with 1/4-inch screws.
7. Measure in 22.5 inches from the top left corner. Position one 3-inch-by-3-inch L-bracket at this point. Make the bracket flush with its respective long side edge. Screw one side of the bracket to the wood with 1/4-inch screws.
8. Measure up 24 inches from the bottom of the wall on which you intend to install the rack. Center the 3-inch-by-30-inch piece against the 36-inch wall at the 24-inch height. Position the 30-inch piece so the L-brackets are under the board. Screw the L-brackets into the wall with 1/2-inch screws.
9. Measure up 22 inches from the bottom of the wall on which you intend to install the rack. Center the 6-inch-by-30-inch piece against the 36-inch wall at the 22-inch height. Position the 30-inch piece so the L-brackets are under the board. Screw the L-brackets into the wall with 1/2-inch screws. Slide the front end of the shoe in between the boards to hold the shoe in place.
Purchase a gift related to the stock market for a friend who follows stocks.
For a friend who works as a stockbroker or who is simply a stock market enthusiast, choose a gift related to the market. There are a variety of gifts that can be useful for those who follow stocks daily, as well as gifts that simply provide entertainment. Purchase a gift that brings more understanding of stocks -- or helps a stressed-out broker relax.
Opening Bell
Purchase a hand bell that sounds like the opening bell that is rung daily at the New York Stock Exchange. The bell can be engraved with the name of your stock market enthusiast or with a special message. Some ideas for messages include: Quiet Please! Market-Watching In Progress! or I Love My Stockbroker!
Magazine Subscriptions
Purchase a subscription to a magazine that provides stock market analysis. Some useful ones include Business Week, Forbes, Money, and Barron's. These provide articles, news, updates and advice on the stock market and help direct consumers in invest their money.
Ambient Orb
For an entertaining, whimsical gift, buy an ambient orb for a friend who is a stock market enthusiast. The ambient orb is made of glass and can be set to change colors according to the Dow and other market indexes. When the market is up, the orb glows green. When the market is falling, the orb glows red.
Rather than contribute to the formation of blood clots, statin drugs work to combat clotting by reducing the amount of bodily cholesterol produced and the potential for blockage to build.
Identification
Six different forms of statin drugs are prescribed to work in the liver and block production of the enzyme necessary for cholesterol.
Clots
Blood clots caused by statin drugs are not a known side effect. Rather, by reducing the amount of cholesterol, statins limit hardening of the arteries a condition that, if left untreated, may eventually result in clotting.
Side Effects
Rashes, liver damage, digestive problems, fatigue and muscle pain are recognized problems. The most common statin side effect is muscle pain, says the Mayo Clinic. You may feel this pain as a soreness, tiredness or weakness in your muscles.
Research
Recent research presented at a meeting of the American Academy of Cardiology indicates statins may help prevent blood clots in an even different manner than previously believed. This suggests that a statin has potential beneficial effects on the venous circulation, not just the arterial circulation, said Dr. Carl J. Lavie, of the Ochsner Heart and Vascular Institute in New Orleans.
Considerations
Concern exists that statins are being prescribed too liberally. Some doctors and public health advocates are concerned that too many people are turning to statin drugs before trying to lower LDL cholesterol through dietary and lifestyle change, according to Consumer Reports magazine.
I am doing some remodeling and found evidence of termites (fairly recent tubes but no live bugs) in an interior wall. I have had termites and termite damage in the past and had the house treated about 20 years ago. I got 3 quotes, all within a $200 range. Two were for the Sentricon bait system and one for applying Termidor around the entire perimeter of the house. Although I like the green approach of the baits, the company quoting the more conventional treatment claimed they used to use the bait system but with 10' spacing, they found some termites still made their way to the house, missing the baits. This company is the only one offering a guarantee to pay for damage as long as you are under their contract. (All contracts were about $250/year). Any real world experience or recommendations for one treatment over the other?
Termite bait stations are not intended as a stand-alone prevention. There are termites who will pass them by and head directly to your structure. A termiticide barrier offers greater protection. Termite inspectors do not have x-ray vision like Superman, so inspections are limited to areas that are visible. Protect the investment in your home with termiticide barrier treatment and maintain the annual contract. Keep all paperwork re: all infestations and repairs as well as treatment programs. When it comes time to sell, you will need this info to document your disclosure.
Baits in the midwest are ok but in the winter they are not real effective. PLEASE look at you contract know their are disclaimers. OLD damage will not be covered. Termidor or premise should be fine and will last for years. I have a link with some articles that may help. Pest Cemetery Termites I've done pest control for about 25 years so thse should help. Good Luck
Tags: treatment, bait, sentricon, termidor, about years, bait system, termiticide barrier
I have a Ryobi string trimmer in the shop that just wont start. It is a CS30 Model 30000. I have spark at the wire end and also the plug is firing. I removed the a/f cover and with (for lack of a better description) a tiny turkey baster added gas to the venturi. Will not even attempt to fire. The spark plug was wet so it seems gas is getting to the cylinder. Used the turkey baster to pour some fuel down the spark plug hole -- nothing. The engine seems to have real good compression. I was going to try and clean out the carb however Ryobi tech told me there is no rebuild kit for this carb. It is a throw away item. All help regarding next steps is appreciated on this one.
My guess is that the carburetor is dumping fuel into the crankcase. You need to flush out the crankcase of the excessive fuel and recondition the carburetor with a new rebuild kit. Remove the spark plug, move the plug wire out of the way, make sure the kill switch is activated so you get no power to the wire, remove the carburetor, spray a small amount of carb/choke cleaner into the intake port, cover the plug hole with a paper towel, pull the engine over six, or so times, replace the paper towel with a new towel, spray some more carb/choke cleaner in the port, pull it over another six times. Repeat this process until there is no indication of fuel on the paper towel and you are sure there is no more fluid in the crankcase (including and especially carb/choke cleaner as there is no lubrication in it and you don't want to seize the engine after you have reassembled the machine) . Post back with the make, model and serial numbers of your carburetor (found on the carb). I'm certain there is a rebuild kit for it. It should be either a Zama or Walbro carb and you can get a kit at most small engine shops for the carb that carry such parts...not a Ryobi kit.
As it turns out, I also had a McCulloch trimmer in with the same problem. I decided to try out some of the archived procedures I found on the McCulloch and if they worked move on to the Ryobi. They both have Zama carbs on them. I removed the plastic caps (without breaking them), removed the high and low speed jets and the spacer and sprayed carb cleaner in the holes. I then blew them out with about 20-25 lbs of air. I next squirted carb cleaner in the venturi area and also tried to blow some in the carb inlet. I next lightly blew air in the carb inlet. I put everything back together including the plastic caps, primed it, and it started after a couple pulls. I was pleasantly surprised. Well, now it is on to the Ryobi. Any comments pro or con on the procedure would be appreciated.
Sounds like you did what you need to do, and I'd do it again on the Ryobi and hope for success.
Well, I did the same procedure to the Ryobi and it would not start. Any sugestions on what i can check next. I have tried to remove the air box and the carb and it wont budge. How much do I have ot remove to check the flywheel key.
If your flywheel retaining nut is tight there isn't anything on a trimmer to shear the flywheel key = no sudden stop at the load end. The coil drive spring absorbs most of that. I would suggest dumping all the gas out of the tank and pull the plug. Then with full throttle and the ignition off, plug wired tied out of the way, spin it over about fifteen or so times to completely purge the gas out of it. Then add a teaspoon of gas mix directly into the cylinder, new plug, no choke, half throttle. See if it will start for you. If it does, put it all back together and run it off the tank.
thanks marbobj I will try it
Well, I took a compression test on the unit and it only produced 60PSI. This was after pulling both 3 and 5 times. Looks like I found the problem. I usually do this test first on any 2 cycle but of course not this time. Looks like this one goes to the scrap pile.
Yep, you found it. 60 lbs won't start that little jewel. Sometimes you can get by with a little less compression on a two stroke mower with the blade impetus on it, but a trimmer or chain saw will do nothing but build your bicep.
I went ahead and removed the muffler to look at the piston, ring and cylinder. The piston was scored and the ring appeared frozen in the groove. Cylinder looked ok from what I could see. I was surprised that the muffler screen was completely clean -- not even a spec of oil or dirt. Makes me think that this unit was running lean or with not enough oil in the mix. Do you think this is worth repairing. What might the approximate cost for a new piston, ring and crankcase gasket be. I tried soaking the ring with PB Blaster and then Sea Foam however it would not free up.
If the piston is shot the cylinder on the side of the piston scoring is likely done as well. I imagine you'd have seventy dollars in the piston, barrel, ring, and crank seals.
I'm trying to find a bushing for a price pfister kitchen faucet. I found it in build.com website but delivery is not til Nov 16! LOL Does anyone know of any other source possibly? I've been searching for the last 2 days with no luck. I'm debating if I want to replace a perfectly good faucet for just the bushing I can't seem to find. The part number is 950-341. Link to faucet faq... FAQ Item 2 is my issue: 2. Leaking from the base of the spout: If the unit is leaking from the base of the spout, replace the o-ring (950-635) and bushing (950-341) on the spout.
Welcome to the forums!! A direct contact to Price Pfister via their customer service phone number will result in an immediate shipping of any parts you need. They have a lifetime warranty, and I would be surprised if they gave you any excuses at all. I have never had a problem.
I did some googling for ya... and came up cold. In fact a few sites I looked at said the part was DISCONTINUED! ouch. How old is the faucet? This seems like planned obsolescence at it's finest (worst?). Pfis Pricester doesn't make it easy to find that telephone number on their site either! I did find this finally: Call 1-800 PFAUCET (732-8238) to talk to a Consumer Support representative [edit: Maybe they changed the number? I found this:] Pfister 950-3410 35 / 36 Series Bushing But the 'lead time varies' bit is a bit ominous. Looks like you can also add a zero to the O-ring number as well. I might be tempted to just try replacing the o-ring without the bushing and see what happens, and I would think you should be able to find a 'generic' ring to use... bring the old ring and the spout to a real hardware store...
Thanks for replies guys. The faucet is probably a good 10 years old. It was already installed when we moved in 7 years ago. It still works great except for that base leak. The bushing is cracked and this is where the water is sipping through. The wait is too long for a parts replacement. I think I might just go ahead and start shopping around for a faucet. I was also hoping to find the bushing since it's easier than dealing with the hot and cold water connection under the sink.
I suggest Moen if your going to replace. Its all I use. Mike NJ
Second vote for Moen......................
I've not installed Moen in years, so I suppose with the accolades being heaped by the qualified plumbers, they have changed. I had a guy who ran a personal care home. These folks were rough on faucets. Leaned on them, turned them off too hard, etc. He had me replace the old plastic Moen faucets probably every month. Cheap, $25 each back then. Plastic, mostly. I finally told him to let me put in a faucet that could take it. I put in a PP and never heard from him again. So, if Moen has graduated to the 21st century and is using brass waterways, etc. then that's great. I just remember my earlier experience. Glad to know their quality is better.
I forgot to mention that I did replace the O-ring with something I found from the local Ace Hardware, this is the second time replacing the O-ring, the last replacement was about 2-3 years ago. I looked around for a decently priced faucet last night and found this one from Amazon (gotta love free shipping and no tax). This one comes with a sprayer though, I have a fourth hole but it's in use by the R/O water dispenser. Is there an option to not use the sprayer, not hook it up or something. Edit: Hmm, I looked at the faucet again today and I don't think that was the one I was looking at last night. I thought it was a Moen... sigh, I must have been out of it.
If you like a spray its in the handle. Amazon.com: Moen, Inc. 87316C Renzo Single Handle Pullout Kitchen Faucet: Home Improvement You could do this type with spray. Does not use the hole for RO. Amazon.com: Moen, Inc. 87316C Renzo Single Handle Pullout Kitchen Faucet: Home Improvement No spray. Amazon.com: Moen 7425 Chateau One-Handle Low Arc Kitchen Faucet, Chrome: Kitchen Bath Fixtures Two handle high arc. Amazon.com: Moen 87300 Chrome Two Handle High Arc Kitchen Faucet with Spray: Kitchen Bath Fixtures You can cap the spray port on the Moens. There is a speacial plug for it. Thats what I did with mine because I have RO. I put a spray on the aerator. I will get the part # of the plug if you need it. Mike NJ
The 87300 looks almost similar to the one I have, it's sold by another company through Amazon so I will have to search around for pricing with decent shipping. If you have the part # of the plug handy, I would greatly appreciate it. I'm not a fan of sprays.
Just to update this thread, might be useful for someone searching in the future. I went to Pfister's website and used their contact form. I got a reply from someone and long story short, they sent me a couple of o-rings and when that did not fix it, they sent me a new spout assembly! Fixed that leaking problem without spending a dime Thanks Pfister!
Tags: price, pfister, parts, Amazon Moen, Kitchen Faucet, 87316C Renzo, 87316C Renzo Single, 87316C Renzo Single Handle, 87316C Renzo Single Handle Pullout, Amazon Moen 87316C, Amazon Moen 87316C Renzo, Amazon Moen 87316C Renzo Single